Wednesday, April 14, 2010

Lost in Translation (& Cyberspace!)

Back story:
I nearly experienced a Level 12 Meltdown last night as Blogger completely deleted my Pattern Translation Post just as I was about to publish it to my Blog!  I have no idea what happened, but I soon discovered that even though this has happened to a lot of bloggers' posts, I could find no one with an answer about how to "fix it."  Anyway, I've written it again.  Read this translation and if you try this project, please let me know.  I'd also love to see some pics!
I've completed the Butterick 4685 Fast & Easy (she said facetiously) top. I posted some photos on a separate page of the blue top. If you've followed me on my journey to completion, you'll know that, out of necessity, I made some changes to my top. In order to try to write a better review, or translation, I felt I needed to do the project again, following the pattern more closely. So, I made another shirt. I feel like I had a pretty good handle on the instructions, especially since I had already completed the blue top. Side note: I am secretly sick of this top and everything about the pattern. But, I promised a translation, sew here goes:

Pattern: Butterick Fast and Easy B4685 (view B)
Size: 14 (c'mon I have broad shoulders)
Materials I used: 1 7/8 yds. pink cotton, 1 1/4 yds 1/4" elastic, *61 1/2 inches 1 1/2" single edge scalloped lace trim*
Changes I made: For the ruffled sleeve bands, I made two self faced ruffles from two 28 1/2" X 4 1/2" pieces of the shirt fabric.  I also shortened the lengths of the sleeves
Recommend for beginner?  Yes, it is a good starter shirt, but make sure you have enough materials!
NOTE:  The pattern notes to buy 1 3/8 yds of the lace trim.  THIS WILL NOT BE ENOUGH.  The neckline (includes the tops of the sleeves/shoulders) on both my tops was about 60 inches around.  Obviously this is before the elastic is inserted.  For the second shirt, I bought 3 yds of lace in case I decided to use this on the ends of the sleeves instead of the fabric ruffles.

Step 1:  Cut out pattern pieces from the tissue paper pattern.  I used pieces 1, 2, 3.  I didn't use 4 because I made the self faced ruffles.  More on that later.
Step 2:  Lay out the pattern pieces on the fabric  (make it easier and use 45" wide fabric).  Sometimes this is confusing, but remember, the straight of grain (indicated by the arrow) should be parallel to the selvages and or fold.  Transfer the markings (the big circles) from the pattern to the fabric.   
Step 3:  Cut out the fabric pieces.  Oh, and NEVER cut the fold. You will be placing #1 and #2 on the fold.
Step 4:  Stitch the front (1) to the back (2).  Start stitching (right sides together) just below the armholes.  Stop stitching when you get to the large circles at the bottom. 
Step 5:  Stitch sleeve seams.  Fold in half (lengthwise) each sleeve right sides together.  Stitch the seam below the "armpit."  Leave the upper part open as this will be sewn to the body piece.
Step 6:  Make the ruffle.  I determined that since each sleeve was 14" around the bottom, I would need 2 28" lengths of fabric.  I actually made them 28 1/2" to be safe.  In order for the ruffles to be 2" wide.  I cut each 4 1/2".  The self faced ruffles are nicer (even though you use more fabric) because they are finished on both edges and "underneath."  They just make the shirt much "cleaner" on the inside. 
Step 7:  On the inside, or wrong side, of the shirt, attach each ruffle to each sleeve end by basting around.  I then stitched bias tape around the inside to cover the seams.  See photo:

single fold bias tape stitched inside sleeve band
Step 8:  On the right side of the shirt, pin the lace to the upper edge.  Make sure the straight edge of the lace is even with the upper edge of the shirt.  Turn under the end of the lace in order to sew it to the other end of the lace.  Stitch along this vertical seam.  Baste around close to the upper edge. 
Step 9:  Instead of now turning the upper edge to the inside in order to make the casing for the elastic, I stitched the bias tape along the top edge and lower edge (on the wrong side of the shirt).  I made sure to leave an opening in the end for the elastic.  NOTE:  This is similar to how I finished the sleeves, but on the neck, I didn't fold the bias tape.  I kept it "open" and used the "channel" down the middle to encase the elastic.
Step 10:  Insert one end of the elastic after attaching a safety pin to it.  Scrunch it around and pin the elastic to the other end.  Try on the shirt and make sure the lace lays how you like it.  Adjust if necessary.  Remove the pin and stitch together.
Step 11:  Hem the bottom of the shirt.  The pattern advises to use a Narrow Hem.   Basically I did a double fold hem.

That's it.  Why not give this a try?

No comments: